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This course covers fundamentals of nonlinear water waves based on perturbation methods. After reviewing basic techniques of perturbation methods, we study solutions for Stokes waves of deep water. After identifying the limitation of Stokes waves solution in shallow water, we then derive the nonlinear shallow-water equations. Finally, we explore the Boussinesq equations to account for (weak) dispersion and solve the kdV equation to obtain the solitary wave solution.
It is recommended to take a previous lecture, Water Surface Waves: Small Amplitude Waves, before this lecture.
l Perturbation methods
l Stokes wave theory and solutions
l Nonlinear shallow water equations
l Boussinesq equations
l kdV equation and solitary wave solution
Week 1. Introduction to perturbation method
Week 2. Stokes wave theory
Week 3. Nonlinear shallow-water equations
Week 4. Boussinesq equations and KdV equation
Who can take this course?
Unfortunately, learners residing in one or more of the following countries or regions will not be able to register for this course: Iran, Cuba and the Crimea region of Ukraine. While edX has sought licenses from the U.S. Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) to offer our courses to learners in these countries and regions, the licenses we have received are not broad enough to allow us to offer this course in all locations. edX truly regrets that U.S. sanctions prevent us from offering all of our courses to everyone, no matter where they live.
Who can take this course?
Unfortunately, learners residing in one or more of the following countries or regions will not be able to register for this course: Iran, Cuba and the Crimea region of Ukraine. While edX has sought licenses from the U.S. Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) to offer our courses to learners in these countries and regions, the licenses we have received are not broad enough to allow us to offer this course in all locations. edX truly regrets that U.S. sanctions prevent us from offering all of our courses to everyone, no matter where they live.